by
Shipscook
@ 2008-09-27 - 16:09:05
We had a fantastic time in Tallinn and it seems incredible today that it was only a week ago time moves on so fast.
Anyhow day three began with a bowl of dust pretending to be muesli as I already have a fully paved patio. after that we went in search of an internet cafe which we found at the Balti Jam railway station. ~Now the confusing thing about the internet cafe was that the woman running the cafe had nothing to do with the computers so we asked the woman in the Post Office next door who directed us to the left luggage room under the station where the tickets were sold from. For 25 crowns we got half an hour.
After a quick blog we had a noes around the station where the trains only seem to go to Russia, Belorussia and and Ukraine, which explains why the shops were full of Russian stuff and the drunken Russians who were always hanging about by the station.
From the station we headed off past the Herring Gulls by Snelli Pond

for a coffee at the decent coffee shop in the town square, followed by a visit to the Torture Museum (80 Crowns). Very gruesome it was too full of medieval implements designed to punish or get the desired confessions out of people whether its the truth or not. We saw an Iron Maiden along with a rack, thumbscrews, the boot and a chastity belt!
Then after lunch at the Hell Hunt we headed down Pikk past the House of the Blackheads (what a tight squeeze) the headquarters of a group of traders who chose the Moorish saint St Mauritius as a figurehead (hence the blackhead), then the Church of St Olaf which has the tallest spire of any church in Tallinn. Now St Olaf was a King of Norway who was made into a saint for massacring pagans. And they wonder why it has been struck by lightning eight times and burnt down.
From there we headed out of the old town through the Viru Gate to see the statue of the Bronze Boy by the National Theatre and Concert Hall. Now the Bronze Boy is a tribute to the young students who took up rifles to help through the Russians out in 1918-19. Quite splendid he is in his nakedness in a very homo-erotic way.
The last piece if sightseeing for us was the St Nicholas Kirk (not to be confused with the Russian Orthodox church we visited the day before and 15 Crowns to get in) This particular church was bombed by the Russians during the Second world war and is now a museum of holy art. Most interesting exhibit is the huge Danse Macabre where a party of Deaths dance alongside the Pope, Cardinal, Emperor, Empress, King and priest to show how death levels everyone, fascinating piece of work.
Then taking a route past the parliament house built by Catherine the Great we returned to the Skane via the medieval city walls and accross the tram lines at Balti Jam where we witnessed these sparrows

Who were waiting for the pigeons to finish being fed by an old lady before hoovering up the crumbs. I do like to see these little birds which you no longer see in London.
On to the evening and we decided to leave the Beer House to the Euro-Barrys and Stag Parties after Old Nick on a fag break, witnessed Mickey Mouse trying to lift Robin Hood from the gutter. On to the other Olde Hansa restaurant which is split over two levels with the minstrels sitting on the stairs right by our table.
Along with the Honey and herb beer we started with Mushroom soup for Mab a meat plate for Nick while I had a fish plate with salmon, herring, anchovies, quails eggs, olives, pickled veg and some kind of cream cheese with bread containing dries ham. All very good Followed by Venetian Duck for Mab, Rabbit for Old Nick and the Knights Steak which came in a creamy sauce for me. For veg we had the lentils, spelt porridge, pickled cucumbers, turnip with ginger and London saffron pickle. All washed down with a pepper aquavit for our good health (ahem)it came to about 1600 Crowns)
Next up was the Ice Bar where we had a couple of cocktails including a freebie Kill Bill for me when our Mixologist overdid the Galliano. So after getting kicked out from there it was on to the Hell Hunt where we met a Dachshund in a a red jumper

which the slightly tipsy and deaf Mab decided was called Johan after I greeted it with a "Yo Hund!" which in our merry state seemed incredibly funny for some reason.
Well that was enough fun for our last day so we headed back to the Skane for a good night's kip before our journey home the following day.
Now some airport advice. If you check in online look out for the Estonian Airlines ground-crew who will swap your print out pass for a proper one just before the boarding gate, it makes getting on the plane easier. Best Airport shopping tip is Estonian Vodka, but given the present poor exchange rate for the pound against the Euro linked Estonian Crown its not a lot cheaper than supermarket vodka even if it does have a bit more swank than Morrison's own.